Day 83 Mattoon to Wausau 52km

Sometimes it really pays to break from the plan. Since leaving the Northwoods of Wisconsin we have found ourselves very much out of place, with an associated and distinct feeling of being both unusual and unwelcome. And last nights campground, Vee's Star, was more than uncomfortable, it felt unsafe, I would not recommend any woman traveler to stay here. So for the very first time, we head west, essentially going backwards! But with good cause, the friend of a friend has offered us the use of her guest room. And the lure of a real bed, a hot shower and the use of a kitchen was enough motivation for us to travel 30 miles in the wrong direction, up and down some steep hills into a headwind. (Isn't it typical that the one day we head west the wind blows east?!) But we got so much more than a bed, a shower and a kitchen. Firstly, heading west took us to Birnamwood, a little town with a library and a bakery, we are very easily pleased nowadays! Wifi and apple pie, what more could a girl ask for??? Then Celine and Pat, their kids Nick, Shaye and Holley, and their pets, Max, Sweetie and Lance, welcomed us with enthusiasm, into their gorgeous 1920s home. And after 10 days of riding, and no laundromat in sight, we have never enjoyed doing laundry as much as we did today. The satisfaction of turning disgustingly dirty everything into piles of sweet smelling, crisply folded, wearable again clothing was a pleasure. The kitchen again proves to be the heart of a home, and more pleasure is found in being a part of a family meal, from preparation to the glass of wine and great conversation to be had after the meal. These last few days plagued by feelings of social discomfort and literal filth have ended and tonight we sleep the deep sleep of two clean and happy travelers. - Posted using BlogPress from my iPad