Secondly as we stop to watch a mature male elk with a big set of antlers breakfasting by the side of the road, and are lucky enough to see some coyotes springing through the grass on the other side of the road. The up and down climbing of the first 14 miles leaves us puffing, the altitude taking it's toll. But the final approach is initially a joyful downward sit and spin, until the down goes on and on, and we cannot enjoy it as the thought that tomorrow we must ride back up sucks the pleasure out of the descent. A dry, hot, shadeless and showerless (for the third night in a row) campground and an uninspired welcome from the host leaves us thinking that perhaps this return trip was not worth it. But the heat makes a quick wash from a pot of cold water bearable and feeling somewhat more acceptable for crowds we hike up to the tourist venues for lunch, where the American tradition of unlimited refills of your soda (soft drink) really comes into it's own. The people watching is excellent, even better than the airport, and the herd of elk enjoying the shade and green grass outside the visitors centre are just as fun to watch. More hiking upwards takes us to the terraces, created by the mineral rich hot springs which are both beautiful and bizarre. We are proud of ourselves for turning our attitude to today around, and this evening with the heat of the setting sun waning the view from our campsite it pretty damn good, location, location, location!
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